In October I finally went to Iraq for the first time. To do a site visit to the Hawizeh Marshes, in the Northen part of the Majnoon Oilfield. Majnoon is just north of Basra on the Iran - Iraq border. ~400 km from Baghdad and almost double that distance from the war area's in Northern Iraq.
Before travelling to Iraq our employer makes all of us undergo so callet HEAT training - Hostile Environent Awareness Training, and there is an extensive security system in place to keep us all safe whilst in country from the minute we arrive at the Airport. I was fortunately travelling together with a fun colleague who has made the trip numerous times and hence had a great tour guide.
Basra Airport is completely closed off for all non staff and travellers. Ater making it through immigration there everyone is transported by special cars to what is called 'the dust bowl' where everyone is transferred onto the relevant safe in-country transport. In my case mini buses (the same we had in Sakhalin), completely overhauled with armored plates, PSDs (Personal Security Detail) and bullet proof vests. These are the relative 'small' or leight weight versions.
The drive to the field is about 1.5-3 hrs depending on checkpoints. And with the armored plates the windows left are too small, the bullet proof glazing too thick and the bus too dark to take good pictures outside. What I saw was some of Barsa, a dusty environment, many oil field flares and lots and lots and lots of boys playing soccer, everywhere!
Due to the scope I am responsble for on this project I probably had one of the best trips anyone could have to the field. We went in the 2 days there to places and saw parts of the field not many get to see as it is hard to get the right paperwork, transport, security, approvals etc all lined up.
Day one was a drive around the outside of the Majnoon oil field concession using PSD's. (4 car convoy, again armored and a significant security team). That trip takes you over the Iran - Iraq border road with lots of check points. As we undertsood that day due to the war in the North these posts are currently not manned by the regular army but by the coast guard as the regular staff has all been send up North to fight ISIS. For us that made things easier as more English was spoken and we were dealing with people who are more used to seeing foreigners. After a coupls of checkpoints we just got assigned a military guy to take with us all day, and after that there was no more need for our trip leaders to have tea at every post -:)
Of course the guys all where somewhat curious about me, and I was assigned the non Iraqi personal security. However I was treated respectfull all day - just some curiosity and they all tried to take pictures of me when I was not looking. In the end I was also asked to take a picture of some of them.
One of my colleagues took this picture of me - and claimed it was my 'Angeline Jolie moment' I looked like a VIP on a mission somewhere with all the security.
That day, as we were outside the security bubble of the oilfield we had to wear another bullet proof vest all day - a more serious one this time. 12 kg of steel plates. Not comfortable at all! But I was still smiling - Happy we were so fortunate to finally make it there and get around the whole way instead of being turned around at the first checkpoint - which was a real possibility.
We encountered some of the local Marsh Arabs there. Who proudly posed for a picture.
Their women, almost looking like Ninja's, where in the boats cutting reed. We passed this place actually twice on our trip and the 2nd time we passed they were all waiting alongside the road. Wanting to see the strange lady in the last car. Very nice encounter!
That first day we also made our way through two local communities. More a scattering of houses really. With lots and lots of kids - many of them with light eyes (green/blue) and dark red hair.
And to underpin the famous books, I also saw some kids with kites on the dyke.
The second day my colleague and I were eagerly waiting just outside the camp. According to our host - we looked like 2 excited 8 year olds ready for the school trip. I gues sthat is also exactly how we felt! Day two was a trip on quads (Polaris 4WD vehicles) with the ERW team - i.e. the mine clearance team. We would go into locations of the field where the heavy armored vehicles cannot go (no roads and they would set off mines etc with their weight) and where we will in future have facilities, but do not have any at this stage.
It was clearly fun hanging out with these guys. One of them actually has lost a leg (elsewhere in the world) to mines, as is sporting a metal leg under one of those coverals. These guys have been driving around all corners of the concession for ~ 4 years now and hence know more about what goes on locally and in the field then anyone else. The stories about Iranian army driving in unannounced to recover human remains from bunkers from the last war here are the more uncomfortable ones.
Again we also made our way into the Hawizeh Marshes, the wetlands falling under the Ramsar convention. Here called Assafia Wild Life Park.
Plenty of pretty birds around. Will wait for Chris to tell us what this is.
Driving the quads is a dusty affair so we looked like gangsters.
The environment was pretty, but somewhat bizarre. Nice rocket!
The guys had fun showing me around so got plenty of good pictures of me.
After the wildlife park we made our way back through the camp along the border again, straight through the main battle grounds of the Iran - Iraq war. The weather added to the spooky feel. See the helmet?
And the rockets?
We also climbed some of the bunkers still there on top of sand hills
And the guys showed me the place where they collect all the cleared ERW (Explosive Remnants of War) and every once in a while detonate the lot. The amount of clearance needed all over the field is staggering!
Everywhere in the field are also Oil Field Police Posts. Manned by local police. Most looked their eyes out when seeing me. The most fun one was one of the last posts. Policeman X was on duty hanging around in the door post, policeman Y had just woken up and was still in his underwear. When they spotted a lady on the last quad Mr X started laughing and pointing at Mr Y who promptly hollered and danced for me in his underwear. That was even a first for my guide of the day from the ERW team.
After 3 nights in the camp, and 2 fabulous days in the field I also established I probably saw by far the best parts of it all and I was eager to go home again.
My container room in the camp was fine. But it is not quite the same as the fancy hotels and the 37th floor or so I normally stay at in Dubai -;)
A further trip to Iraq shall no doubt follow. More likely to Energy City in Basra and not the field. We'll see. Eelco also did his training and has his visa and may go for another project we have in South Iraq.
